What do I look for in a Model and what to avoid

Whilst everyone loves to work with perfect and agency models realistically this is not always possible or cost effective. Some of the best models I have worked with have not been ‘agency standard’ and this in now way means that they are not excellent models. Rather the industry has decided that because they are one or two inches too short for catwalk, or perhaps too curvy for fashion, or not mainstream enough.
Should we therefore overlook these models? I think not, society is full of individuals and it is these that we are trying to connect with via our pictures so lets embrace variety and take advantage of it!
For me it is more important that a model is enthusiastic and eager to work than how experienced or agency standard they are. At the moment for example I am planning some faery tale based images and the model I have in mind for some of these shots, is not ‘agency standard’ in that she is of average height – however she more than makes up for this in her modelling skills and all my images with her have been amazing. Would I rather use an ‘agency standard’ model for these shots – definitely not! The model has to compliment the image and vice versa.
References from previous clients are a good source of information but it is important to make sure that they are accurate and first hand. Too often we hear of people bad-mouthing others in the industry in order to get ahead. Model X will tell Photographer A that Photographer B said this that or the other… and quite often it is to build up a relationship with the photographer. Photographers will also tell models about other models they know or have heard about.
AN important thing to remember is that when you are being told stories about other people is that they are also probably telling the same stories to someone else but just changing the name – and it could be yours!
For me then I choose to work with models who avoid the gossip and simply take part in a shoot. A professional model is one that you will work with again and again.